Buying A Used Car In The Philippines

[robert k]

Deevey, you don't just scrap a valuable car because someone let it run out of oil and put a rod through the block and the original engine became unrepairable so there must be a legitimate procedure. I would agree with you that doing it without proper receipts and hoping nobody notices would probably lead to a world of poo. Maybe you need an affidavit from the mechanic, there has to be a proceedure, besides milling the spot on the block and stamping your old blocks number on it. :)

[deevey]

Deevey, you don't just scrap a valuable car because someone let it run out of oil and put a rod through the block and the original engine became unrepairable so there must be a legitimate procedure. I would agree with you that doing it without proper receipts and hoping nobody notices would probably lead to a world of poo. Maybe you need an affidavit from the mechanic, there has to be a proceedure, besides milling the spot on the block and stamping your old blocks number on it. :)

 

Not saying it can't be done, but it is probably more grief than its worth ... procedure is documented in the link below though. 

 

If someone did let the engine run out of oil, forget to change the timing belt etc ... what else did they "forget" to do though ?

[robert k]

I've told this story before but I knew someone who did not change the emgine oil in a pickup truck for 68,000 miles from new, and it blew. It went 68,000 miles. Just think how long it might have gone if he changed the oil every 25,000 miles? I have seen automatic and standard transmissions with over 200,000 miles on them with nary an oil and or filter change. Many vehicles built in the last 20 years have sealed chassis components and are made to be replaced when they wear out but no other service, like my toyota with 195,000 miles on the factory balljoints, tie-rod ends, etc. Universal joints in the driveline are also that way on many vehicles. If you buy something where the oil has not been changed as it should have been but there has not been detectable damage, if you take care of it you will most likely be allright. You do need to be able to spot the bad ones though, the ones with 90w oil in the crankcase, bananna peels in the differential and other little tricks. My criteria for buying vehicles is 1 does it suit my need and 2 how much is it going to cost per mile/kilometer and what do I need to do to it so it doesn't leave me stranded in an inhospitable place. Not much else matters, although I usually find something that I like. On the other hand, back when I drove all over hell for work as a construction worker, 900 or more miles per week, I always bought new or nearly new work vehicles because when you figure repairs and lost income, the equation is different. I used to earn my living as a mechanic. When I hear a little howl from an axle bearing I smile because I know that if it's just a little howl that it will still probably last 20,000 to 30,000 miles and from the last time I lived on an island for a goodly length of time, that is years for most private vehicles because there just isn't that far to go

 

Of course I have seen some buyers do some funny things like sneak in the night before they go to look at the car and put a large ziptie on a moving part of the driveline so it is whacking the underside of the car when they go to drive it. :hystery:

[Call me bubba]

This site can offer both advice and humorous wisdom on selecting  that used car

and what to look for in possible problems,

http://www.cartalk.com/

 

if 1 has spare time or a fast connection/speed . listen to these guys, as they do broadcast Q&A .

for those who are not from the USA . if you want to hear some funny accents and how some car mechanics

discuss . this might be the one.

 

http://www.cartalk.com/player5/player.php

 

 

 

under discussion there is some useful info

http://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files

[Jollygoodfellow]

 

Deevey, you don't just scrap a valuable car because someone let it run out of oil and put a rod through the block and the original engine became unrepairable so there must be a legitimate procedure. I would agree with you that doing it without proper receipts and hoping nobody notices would probably lead to a world of poo. Maybe you need an affidavit from the mechanic, there has to be a proceedure, besides milling the spot on the block and stamping your old blocks number on it. :)

 

Not saying it can't be done, but it is probably more grief than its worth ... procedure is documented in the link below though. 

 

If someone did let the engine run out of oil, forget to change the timing belt etc ... what else did they "forget" to do though ?

 

 

 

 

 

This is the procedure for change of engine

 

Change Chassis/Motor

 

Requirements

Original copy of the Certificate of Registration (CR)

Original copy of latest Official Receipt (OR) of payment of MVUC and other fees.

Confirmation of CR/OR when the registering district office is different from the district office that issued CR/OR

Original copy of Sales Invoice 

Certificate of Stock Reported (CSR)

Affidavit of change chassis/engine

PNP-TMG MV Clearance Certificate

Duly accomplished and approved Motor Vehicle Inspection Report (MVIR)

Appropriate Insurance Certificate of Cover

Taxpayer’s Identification Number (TIN)

Procedure

1. Proceed to the transaction counters and submit all the required documents to the Evaluator for evaluation and computation of fees.

2. Actual inspection of motor vehicles with duly accomplished MVIR. (This form is available for download here. You can accomplish this form prior to transacting your business at the LTO.)

3. Proceed to the Cashier when your name is called for the necessary fees and obtain an Official Receipt (OR).

4. Proceed to the Releasing Counter when your name is called to obtain the Certificate of Registration (CR), plates, stickers, and other requested documents.

Venue

District Office that issued the Certificate of Registration

 

Fees

 

 

Lot of info here

 

http://www.lto.gov.ph/index.php/services/mv-registration/104-new-initial-or-1st-time-registered-in-the-philippines

[robert k]

To dredge this thread up yet again, I am on Negros and I will be travelling soon to Cebu to buy a used car. Roughly, it looks like  the southern part of Negros Oriental is the place where cars go to die. If it's repairable at all, they want twice the price of it's counterpart on Cebu. :hystery:

[cebu rocks]

Hey Robert what are you looking for ?

 

My mechanic has lots of contacts and wont sell junk .

[robert k]

Hey Robert what are you looking for ?

 

My mechanic has lots of contacts and wont sell junk .

I am trying to stay flexible. I'd like a toyota Tamaraw, Toyota liteace van / truck. Not afraid of some cosmetic or minor boo-boos,mechanically sound is what's needed and what I'm looking for. I may even be interested in a simple as a stone axe owner type jeep, if it's in good shape. Not looking for something too pretty, I have been enduring slow speed collisions here about every other day. A big rusty push guard, maybe with some entrails hanging off of it may be just the ticket.

 

I was a mechanic for several years and I would gladly buy junk, price commensurate with value, for repairable junk, if parts are readily available. I have bought straight from the wrecking yard before.

 

Worst comes to worst, I will just pick whatever looks like I could drive it for a year and still get my money back out of it., which shouldn't be hard, after seeing what things sell for on Negros.

[Thomas]

I am trying to stay flexible. I'd like a toyota Tamaraw, Toyota liteace van / truck.

If I haven't said it in this thread   -  Look up some extra with Tamaraw, because it's a common taxi. I suppouse they go on driving them, until they are crap.

[cebu rocks]

Ok Robert I will talk to him this week anything toyota is a good bet because the parts are all available and cheap . I will Pm his number when I get it from my phone