T.Monk Posted April 15, 2013 Author Posted April 15, 2013 I took a year of physics in college too. But instead of Googling for that formula, why not just have another drink, right? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i am bob Posted April 15, 2013 Posted April 15, 2013 The best solution for this is a PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) and an expansion tank. Second choice? Get a water tank like you would have for a well. Put an electrically controlled valve between the tank and your incoming water. Then wire the valve up to the pressure switch assembly so that, instead of turning on a pump for a well, it will open the valve instead. Once enough water has flowed into the tank, the pressure switch will energize and then cut off the flow of water into the tank. Then you just have to set the pressure for the water to leave the tank at. The only other way I can think of getting relief is to have the water company reduce the water pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.Monk Posted April 15, 2013 Author Posted April 15, 2013 That's interesting. So you are suggesting on electronic on/off valve which the pressure tank controls like it does a well pump. Does that make the pressure tank an "expansion tank" or is an expansion tank something else again? Is there a name for that kind of on/off valve? I'm really not all that familiar with plumbing, so what term does that valve go by? Also, you state: The best solution for this is a PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) and an expansion tank, Why "and"? Are you using a belt and suspenders approach, or should I expect some problem with the PRV alone? I might note that most residential plumbing here is outside, and not in basements as I am accustomed. So we'd have to protect all that electronics from rain which involves extra structures or containers. I had to do that with my fish pond filter apparatus. It's doable though. Thanks for your suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i am bob Posted April 16, 2013 Posted April 16, 2013 That's interesting. So you are suggesting on electronic on/off valve which the pressure tank controls like it does a well pump. Does that make the pressure tank an "expansion tank" or is an expansion tank something else again? Is there a name for that kind of on/off valve? I'm really not all that familiar with plumbing, so what term does that valve go by? Also, you state: The best solution for this is a PRV (Pressure Reducing Valve) and an expansion tank, Why "and"? Are you using a belt and suspenders approach, or should I expect some problem with the PRV alone? I might note that most residential plumbing here is outside, and not in basements as I am accustomed. So we'd have to protect all that electronics from rain which involves extra structures or containers. I had to do that with my fish pond filter apparatus. It's doable though. Thanks for your suggestions. The expansion tank would get rid of the hammering that is occurring. Reducing the pressure alone won't usually cure this alone. And, yes, you are basically building an electronically controlled expansion tank - or an oversized pressure valve. A dab of a curing silicone (for electrical use) on your bare wires and connectors will solve your weather problems. It is easily cut and peeled off with a pocket knife. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Hounddriver Posted April 17, 2013 Posted April 17, 2013 Or, You can put a big metal tank up on your roof or on a tower. Fill it with your high pressure water, and get gravity feed pressure like 3/4 of the Philippines (including me) seems to get. :hystery: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T.Monk Posted April 28, 2013 Author Posted April 28, 2013 This is just an update to anyone who had some interest in this water pressure issue. I got the pressure reducing valve last week form the US and it works like a champ. We keep the pressure at 50psi as the valve was preset at that. We can adjust it to anywhere between 25-75 but for now 50 is just fine. WHAT A DIFFERENCE FROM THE 120PSI ! All the faucets are quieter. From what I've read, reducing pressure from 80 to 50 saves 30% of water consumption. I can see that it might be true b/c not so much water rushes out every time a faucet is opened. It cost me 100USD and about 50USD more for customs, etc. I chose FedEx Priority and weighing in at 3.6 lb. shipping was another 150USD. I'd not ship that way in retrospect, but at the time I sensed the Hawaii plumbing company getting a little reluctant about sending something to the Philippines, so I just went full out. My plumber here thinks he found a similar valve in Manila, but for EIGHTY THOUSAND PhP. Anyone use Johnny Air or My-ShoppingBox for shipping? I would have used Johnny Air for this, but they've lost things in the past. Also, they use FedEx (I've seen the stickers on the packages)--so in this valve situation--there was no difference methinks. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jollygoodfellow Posted April 30, 2013 Posted April 30, 2013 Looks like the pressure is off now and you can relax :thumbsup: 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike S Posted May 1, 2013 Posted May 1, 2013 Looks like the pressure is off now and you can relax :thumbsup: Ahhhhhh ..... JGF ... you silver tongued devil you .... :thumbsup: :hystery: :hystery: :cheersty: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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