Hollow Blocks

[Americano]

The foam "blocks" are the latest thing here in Florida.  After they lay the foam and place the rods they then pour the cement, doors and window openings are blocked out and the result is 4 or 6" of solid concrete reinforced walls with 2" foam insulation.  In most cases prebuilt wood trusses are attached to the rebar then strapped. they must stand 150 mph wind here, more on east coast.

 

Just as I guessed, Florida does not have Earthquakes.

 

The concrete blocks are not meant to be load bearing but when they break or crumble during an Earthquake then the building's sway from side to side will increase which can cause damage to the load bearing members.

[fred]

 

The foam "blocks" are the latest thing here in Florida.  After they lay the foam and place the rods they then pour the cement, doors and window openings are blocked out and the result is 4 or 6" of solid concrete reinforced walls with 2" foam insulation.  In most cases prebuilt wood trusses are attached to the rebar then strapped. they must stand 150 mph wind here, more on east coast.

 

Just as I guessed, Florida does not have Earthquakes.

 

The concrete blocks are not meant to be load bearing but when they break or crumble during an Earthquake then the building's sway from side to side will increase which can cause damage to the load bearing members.

 

 

Here in Bohol,our building was rocking and rolling for a full minute in a 7.2.. (2 floors + 2 floor slabs)

I still find it hard to believe  that there was not a single crack in the render.

I guess thats because we followed a building plan.

Edited December 9, 2014 by fred

[Mike J]

You should not really compare the foam block method of building system with hollow block.  The foam blocks form an insulating wall on each side of a  solid concrete slab reinforced with rebar.  The foam is acting as the pouring form for the wall and is left in place for insulation purpose.  Basically you are looking at a slab wall with foam on each side.  This is much different than block where each block is actually a "part" of the wall itself.  Hope that description made some sense.  Americano and others are correct in that the blocks do not provide any real strength to the building.  It is the columns and beams provide 100% of the strength in the wall.  The blocks are used to fill up the space between the supporting beams and columns.  That being said, you should go with a strong block (extra cement) in the walls  to prevent cracking as Americano stated in his post.  When we built, we used six inch for exterior walls, 4 inch for interior walls, steel for the ceiling truss, and metal roofing.  The only wood used is in the door and window jambs, and the wooden doors themselves to lessen termite damage.  If your builder already has satisfied expat clients, I think you can probably trust him to do a good job.  Also, as Jack mentioned, pilferage can be a major problem when building.    

[jpbago]

 The foam is acting as the pouring form for the wall and is left in place for insulation purpose.

 

How are the inside and outside walls finished with the foam left in place?

[fred]

 

 The foam is acting as the pouring form for the wall and is left in place for insulation purpose.

 

How are the inside and outside walls finished with the foam left in place?

 

[intrepid]

Looks pretty interesting.  If the cost was compairable and was available in the PI, I might want to try it.

 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WePIRo9Spdw#t=243

[not so old china hand]

A friend of mine raised money to help rebuild a school on Malapascua that had been devastated by Yolanda. The money went directly into materials and labour for rebuilding classrooms and the school library. The old buildings were all single story and used 4 inch blocks. For the rebuilding he purchased a 6 x 8 inch hollow block mold so that the blocks could be cast on site. The walls were built up using ferro-reinforced pillars (in the same way as in Fred's photos). The blocks between the pillars were strengthened with rebar uprights.

Yesterday he received an email saying that the classroom had been used as a typhoon refuge during Hagupit, so the builders (mostly local fishermen with a leavening of skilled tradesmen) seem to have confidence in their work.

 

Walking around Malapascua in July I noticed many walls that had simply blown over. AFAICR they were all built with 4 inch blocks. The blocks themselves were generally intact and often had come down in slabs.

[RBM]

The CHB`s are not really load bearing and 4" thick blocks are fine... Your reinforced posts and beams if done correctly are the buildings backbone and strength. 

 

Fred many thanks for that detailed informative post.  Big help.

 

Intend to share your pics with the engineer.

[fred]

 

The CHB`s are not really load bearing and 4" thick blocks are fine... Your reinforced posts and beams if done correctly are the buildings backbone and strength. 

 

Fred many thanks for that detailed informative post.  Big help.

 

Intend to share your pics with the engineer.

 

 

No worries.

IMO there are two pieces of equipment that you need either to hire or buy to help make sure your cement pours go seamlessly and to ensure your post and beams are as strong as they were designed to be...

First is a one bagger cement mixer and the second is a concrete vibrator.. Ask the engineer if he can help you source them locally but shop around.

Try to be onsite to make sure the cement,sand and gravel ratios are correct.

If I can help further dont hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

fred.

[RBM]

 

 

The CHB`s are not really load bearing and 4" thick blocks are fine... Your reinforced posts and beams if done correctly are the buildings backbone and strength. 

 

Fred many thanks for that detailed informative post.  Big help.

 

Intend to share your pics with the engineer.

 

 

No worries.

IMO there are two pieces of equipment that you need either to hire or buy to help make sure your cement pours go seamlessly and to ensure your post and beams are as strong as they were designed to be...

First is a one bagger cement mixer and the second is a concrete vibrator.. Ask the engineer if he can help you source them locally but shop around.

Try to be onsite to make sure the cement,sand and gravel ratios are correct.

If I can help further dont hesitate to ask.

Cheers,

fred.

 

 

Have been able to source a one bagger, guess the reason here is to make a better mix.

 

Fred I have decided now to go with the 4 inch block, using river sand. Would you have a suggestion on what number per bag would be suitable. The dwelling is single level. 

 

I was advised to have higher ceiling for cooling, guess 10 ft. 

 

Thanks  Bruce