New Boat Build Project - (Totally Rebuilding An Older Boat)

[Kuya John]

Well done James,thanks for answering my question

Photos are great too, bet you can't wait to try the boat out.

Guess it will look something similar to this ?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/52857915@N03/14406527532/in/album-72157626223580750/

Edited October 24, 2015 by Kuya John

[jamesmusslewhite]

Well done James,thanks for answering my question

Photos are great too, bet you can't wait to try the boat out.

Guess it will look something similar to this ?

https://www.flickr.com/photos/52857915@N03/14406527532/in/album-72157626223580750/

Yes quite simular to the one you linked. The boat's outer skin will be painted orange with both the water-line and top deck pained blue. I chose orange because the color is easily spoted from afar, so if the boat ever encountered problems it could easily be seen out in open water. White, green and blue are hard to spot at a distance in ocean water as is red and yellow if the weather is hazy or rain. The human eye is naturally drawn to the color orange, this is why it is used for caution signs, road worker's vests and life preservers. Plus, I really like the color orange.

Edited October 25, 2015 by jamesmusslewhite

[jamesmusslewhite]

The interior of the boat has been sanded and cleaned so we can apply a clear epoxy to all the inside surfaces of the plywood hull skin, hull frame and the hull frame. This will allow the epoxy to seep into any cracks, holes or exposed seems. This will help strengthen the bond between the hull skin and the hull frame, soak into all the exposed wood surfaces of the hull's plywood skin and hull frame. This layer of clear epoxy will soak into the surfaces of the wood allowing a protection from rains, saltwater spay and humidity. We will then apply a second coat to all the surfaces below the middle rail and the whole surface of the hull board. This is to help protect all the lower wood surfaces from moisture and to help protect the wood surfaces from the wear and tear of normal usage. The The hull board was taken from  the previous boat and has deep dings, scratches and crack lines which the clear epoxy will fill further strengthening and extend the longevity or the hull board

 

After the clear ep0xy is applied and dries we will be adding the frame of two lockable plywood storage compartments under the forward and aft deck boards. The surfaces of the two storage compartments will be thoroughly  coated with epoxy, primer and painted before being nailed in place. This will insure all wood surfaces of the inter of the boat has been properly and adequately treated. 

 

Photo of the aft inner frame after receiving the needed coats of clear epoxy.  This also shows the two addition supports which are added before the deck board can be epoxied and nailed in place. The first support is to strengthen the weight that the deck board will recieve and to also support the top of the pipe shown in the which is used for the rudder shaft)

 

Next two photos were taken from the aft facing forward to the bow of the boat.

 

Photo taken from the bow facing the aft end of the boat after application of clear epoxy.

 

 

Just a few finishing touches of clear epoxy and the first stage of paining the boat interior is done, now we let the epoxy set for a few hours before we flip the hull over and let the epoxy dry for a coupe of days.

[jamesmusslewhite]

The first layer as now had adequate time to dry, so we flip the hull back over and start adding some extra details. We measure and cut the deck boards and the storage compartments using a standard grade 1/2 inch marine plywood. The 1/2 inch plywood is sufficient to handle the weight of persons standing on the deck pieces and is sufficient to make storage boxes which can be padlocked. These two storage boxes will hold ropes and lines, fire extinguisher, tool box/spare parts, first aid kit, life preservers, boat registry papers, etc. Of course these items will all be removed when not in use, but these boxes will secure items enough to insure one could dock the boat and pick up supplies and those items will still be on the boat once you return. A padlock is really only meant to keep honest people honest. There are additional supports with must be added to support the deck boards and a cover for the motor. We want to add these before applying the epoxy white primer which is the second stage of the interior painting which will be done to the boat.

 

Notching the top rail where the supports will be epoxied, inserted and nailed in place to support the 1/2 inch plywood deck board on top of the bow end of the boat.

 

The plywood cover for the motor is constructed to slide into two notched vertical wooden slides and fit firmly on the to rail. This helps protect the motor from rain and spay and also serves as a seat for the operator.

 

The top rail is notched and the supports for the 1/2 inch plywood deck board for the aft end of the boat are epoxied, inserted and nailed in place.

 

The shelf bottom of the two storage boxes are measured and cut. Next Step is applying a coat of epoxy 'white' primer to the inside of the boat.

[jamesmusslewhite]

This stage of the painting of the interior of the boat is applying a coat of epoxy 'white' pigment primer. This is the brand I was able to find at the City Hardware here in Surigao City. The paint comes in two cans (one can primer and one can hardener)

 

The epoxy primer paints on smoothly and only one can is needed to paint all the wood surfaces of the plywood skin, hull frame and hull board. My niece makes it look easy and is easier on the eyes that my fat ass. Only one coat is need. 

 

 

 

 

Once the epoxy 'white' pigment primer coat has been applied we let it set for a couple of hours before we flip the hull over to let the primer coat dry for two days.

[jamesmusslewhite]

Now We flip the lady over and epoxy and nail the 1/2 inch plywood deck boards in place,

 

Aft deck top

 

Bow deck top

 

 

[jamesmusslewhite]

Then we slide the motor cover in place to insure everything fits as planned.

 

Front View

 

Back view of the motor cover. Protects the motor from the elements, gives the operator a sturdy seat and lessens the motor noise for those sitting forward of the motor.while still allowing ventilation and unrestricted air flow to the motor.

 

 

The shelf bottom of the two storage boxes are measured and cut. These will later epoxy coated and painted and then nailed in place after the painting of the boat interior is completed. Then the front of the storage boxes will be epoxied and nailed in place and the hinges, hardware and locks added.

[paulus]

James, are you adding a cutwater on the foredeck, or is it not necessary?

[jamesmusslewhite]

James, are you adding a cutwater on the foredeck, or is it not necessary?

 

I was origanally thinking of doing so, but last week a South African friend of mine conviently traveled here to Dinagat Island to do some suring with my Austrialian brothr-in-law. He is a farmally schooled boat builder and he looked the boat over for me. I told him I was thinking of adding a cutwater on the foredeck or halfway above the waterine and the foredeck. He told me he really did not see a need unless the bow was wider, but with the streamline profile of the bow he thought it would be counterproductive and could even cause unnessary downward drag when pushing through high waves in rough water. So I well not use a cutwater at this time and see how she does when climbing the waves, then if it proves to be benificial I can add it later next year when I upgrade to a 20HP deisel engine. I will have to drydock while addng the larger motor, larger propeller shaft and larger rudder so it will be easy to add the new woodwork to the foredeck at that time.

Edited October 28, 2015 by jamesmusslewhite

[jamesmusslewhite]

There a couple of items about the boat I want to mention. a.) I am painting the boat interior white with a clear epoxy overcoat. The reason for that is the boat will be used quite often at night, so the white interior will reflect starlight and moon light allowing one to rig fishing lines and work with nets at night. One only need use a small lamp on dark nights. To use a darker color would make it a more difficult task fishing at night. b.) The removable canopy. I have designed a canopy  that is quite easy to setup or breakdown which will be stored in a plywood crate with rope carry handles. The top of the canopy has two layers, the second layer is a sun screen using nursery grade shade cloth which provides 80% shade, all edges are seemed and sowed with brass grommets spaced every 12 inches, it is lashed tightly to the canopy frame with nylon rope and will at as a permanent cover whenever the canopy is set up and helps to also strengthen the canopy frame . The woven black cloth is also quite porous and allows air to pass through it easily, which helps on windy days to prevent the stress and pull one would experience with solid sheets of canvas or vinyl. The top layer is a solid vinyl sheet which is screwed to small bamboo pole sections and remains rolled up on each side when not needed. When rain is eminent than the vinyl layer can be quickly rolled over the shade-cloth mesh and faceted down with fixed bungee cords, than quickly rolled back up and tied in place. Here in the Surigao City, Dinagat Island and Siargao Island area it rains a lot so such a set up will be quite useful and convenient. Once I get the canopy top frame constructed and the covering layers made, I will add drawings and photos here on the thread. I would imagine that many members who own or wish to build their own little pumpboats will probably want to build a similar canopy cover setup for their own boats.