Building a Home in Davao

[Tommy T.]

On 11/5/2019 at 6:24 AM, Mike J said:

Question Tommy.  What is the spacing on your columns and how thick is the ceiling slab, and the width/depth of the concrete beams (red arrows) on the edges?  The reason I ask is that we are thinking of replacing the roof of our lanai with a roofed viewing deck.  

I just realized that I forgot to tell you about the beams. I see no specification for those on the blueprints. I am heading out to the house site today and will find out those dimensions when I am there...

[Tommy T.]

On 11/5/2019 at 6:24 AM, Mike J said:

Question Tommy.  What is the spacing on your columns and how thick is the ceiling slab, and the width/depth of the concrete beams (red arrows) on the edges?  The reason I ask is that we are thinking of replacing the roof of our lanai with a roofed viewing deck.  

Mike... The beams are 20 cm wide and 40 cm tall. The second floor - and eventually the other floor- slabs will all be 10 cm thick.

Make sure you use the proper sized and quality rebar for the load and number of stories. I know nothing about all that - L is the expert.

[Mike J]

17 hours ago, Tommy T. said:

Mike... The beams are 20 cm wide and 40 cm tall. The second floor - and eventually the other floor- slabs will all be 10 cm thick.

Make sure you use the proper sized and quality rebar for the load and number of stories. I know nothing about all that - L is the expert.

Thanks Tommy.  I have an engineer drawing up plans, but I wanted to get an idea from something that is actually being built.

[Tommy T.]

Back to the property this morning...

The boys have set the scaffolding for the terrace deck atop the second floor and are preparing the forms for that slab. They are also hooking in the rebar to raise the columns to accommodate the terrace and roof.

A couple of them have been filling in the ground beneath where the ground floor slab will be poured some time next week. The only photo from today shows one half of that filling in to be just about complete.

We will meet with the contractors this afternoon to discuss progress and the near term plans. Soon we will have to check the window plan and approve that and also start finalizing the floor tiles we will be wanting. Only five boys working there today, but up to 5-7 more are expected to show up next week.

[Tommy T.]

Another visit to the home site early this morning. Now it's just over two months of construction.

 

Here is the downstairs bathroom (CR). We are making it a bit oversize compared to the "standard" size usually constructed here. Also, the shower will be 1.5 m wide so somewhat wider than standard also. L doesn't really care, but I like to have a bigger bathroom and shower than the standard. Plus both will have windows in the shower wall too. A friend of mine from university has a house with a window in the shower and it is wonderful for the fresh air and also a view when cleaning up. The kitchen is the space to the far left, stairway adjacent the wall at the near left and the living room to the right.

The ground beneath the ground floor slab is now filled and next will be gravel and then the rebar and plumbing. Kitchen is front and center-right here and downstairs bedroom in the center far away.

Except that there will be an angle-iron fence and gate in the way, this is the view out the front door. It is all old fruit orchard property.

Roof deck terrace slab forms being built and column rebar has already been installed.

We are making a number of relatively small changes in dimensions of rooms and locations of doors now that we can step inside and really visualize things better. The foreman is a very smart man and is keeping a sharp eye on things. L talks to him for at least an hour on each visit to ask questions and give suggestions. She has a very sharp eye and misses very little. He also gives us suggestions - mostly about how to improve the build. One of the best of these, so far, was to change the location of the horizontal rebar in the walls - when built - instead of one every four rows (files), as detailed on the blueprint, to one every three rows. This will give added stability to the walls. And this will be done at no extra charge.

So the completed home will be of Filipino/Filipina design and construction but with a lot of western (my) influences. I have been applying many of the suggestions other members have offered in the forum and most of them are readily accepted by the contractor and foreman. I believe the foreman and workers respect L and I because of our participation and knowledge of many parts of the construction. We both notice they work more carefully now than before - not to say they were sloppy - but they seem to pay more attention, especially when we chat with the foreman about technical details. The contractors are also aware that we are rather knowledgeable about a lot of the construction process and so they seem to be on their toes also. 

Oh... another detail that might help any others who are or will build homes or structures here:

The standard method of laying the hollow blocks seems to be to slop on some of the cement (masa) on a layer, place the next block on top and tap it down without much regard for finesse since the walls will be plastered over with more cement. Then they slop some cement down the holes in the hollow block and go on to the next. I thought about this when watching and realized that this would not necessarily make the strongest wall because the cement does not always get to the bottom of the holes and also doesn't fill them up completely. So I suggested that the masons take small lumber pieces and tamp down the cement into the hollow block holes to work it all the way to the bottom, then add more cement, tamp again and repeat until full.

I explained this to L who explained it, in turn, to the foreman and contractor. Everyone thought this was a good idea and so this will be their method. I think they may do it on some projects, but maybe only when requested. I am sure this will result in sturdier walls than many.

L pointed out that, in the places where there are gaps in the walls from broken bits of hollow block or sloppy application, the masons again tended to just toss some of the plaster at the gaps or holes then smooth it all over and call it good... "No, no, no," said L... They must first take the regular Class A cement and fill any gaps or holes carefully with a trowel and make sure to shove it firmly into the gaps. Then, after that is done, go back and do the plastering cover layer.

L also questioned the foreman about the rebar size and quality being used and knew what they should be. He came up with the right answers so she was happy.

All in all, we have no complaints and the progress is finally getting very noticeable.

Edited November 15, 2019 by Tommy T.

[Gary D]

One thing I will say in their defence is that the construction is called beam and pillar. That is where the strength is, the hollow blocks are largely filler and non-structural.

[hk blues]

 "Everyone thought this was a good idea and so this will be their method. I think they may do it on some projects, but maybe only when requested".

Therein lies one of the problems/frustrations with contractors here - they don't always seem to carry good practice with them hence the property owner has to be on their toes IF they know anything about building work.   

[jimeve]

1 hour ago, Gary D said:

One thing I will say in their defence is that the construction is called beam and pillar. That is where the strength is, the hollow blocks are largely filler and non-structural.

Absolutely, That's where attention to detail needs to be addressed, very impotent to get that right and the foundations. Next is the roof needs to be perfect.  

[Tommy T.]

10 hours ago, Gary D said:

One thing I will say in their defence is that the construction is called beam and pillar. That is where the strength is, the hollow blocks are largely filler and non-structural.

I agree with you partially Gary, that the main strength is with the pillar and beam. However, the walls do add support and must also be self supporting. So my feeling is more is better. Additionally, better construction will tend to be a bit better insulation for sound and temperature, I am sure. We believe also that the improved wall construction should (emphasize "should") minimize future cracking issues. I will let you know in a few years if that turns out to be true...

We carefully inspected the beams and pillars already in place and found no defects or cracks from either construction or earthquake. So we are pleased with it all so far.

By the way, the ground, itself, is very solid so that certainly won't hurt...

Edited November 15, 2019 by Tommy T.

[Tommy T.]

Can anyone offer suggestion for preference in ppr plumbing between Unidex and Neltex? Or are they any others that would be "best?" The contractor is asking us what we want them to use. L suggests Neltex and the contractor normally uses Unidex, but will use whatever we specify...

Thanks guys.