Internal walls

[Dave Hounddriver]

1 hour ago, Gary D said:

he said no as it gkes wavy after a time

I wonder how much experience he has with gyprock "over time"?  I would bet that both gyproc and Hardiflex would be equally as "wavy" as the amount of support behind the sheet.  I would also bet that he makes more money putting up gyprock.  But thats just me, based on decades of use with both.

[OnMyWay]

21 minutes ago, Dave Hounddriver said:

I wonder how much experience he has with gyprock "over time"?  I would bet that both gyproc and Hardiflex would be equally as "wavy" as the amount of support behind the sheet.  I would also bet that he makes more money putting up gyprock.  But thats just me, based on decades of use with both.

Actually he said it was his roofing contractor so he may have been just chatting about it with no financial stake in it.

Based on my limited experience with Hardiflex, it seems to me that gyproc, taped by someone who knows that they are doing, has a better finish look.  Hardiflex seems to be harder to hide the seems, even when taping.  I could be wrong.

I have hardiflex ceilings in my living and dining rooms.  I had the seams sealed and sanded, then I had them texture coat the entire ceiling, thinking it would hide the seams.  It helped, but you can still see the seams.

[Dave Hounddriver]

21 minutes ago, OnMyWay said:

it seems to me that gyproc, taped by someone who knows that they are doing, has a better finish look.

In many cases, in Canada anyway, the one who tapes and finishes the ceiling will put some kind of stipple effect on it as it is extremely hard to give the ceiling a perfect look.  It is possible they could do a better job in the Philippines 

Why not do the same stipple effect over your hardiflex?  Or is texture coat the same as stipple?

Edited October 3, 2019 by Dave Hounddriver

[Kuya John]

2 hours ago, Dave Hounddriver said:

Why not do the same stipple effect over your hardiflex?  Or is texture coat the same as stipple?

Fairly simple to do........

[Mike J]

Drywall (gypsum board) is seldom used here, most walls are hollow block.  I have hung and taped far more than my share of drywall, but I would not use it here.  One problem is that moisture, humidity and leaks, seem to happen all to often here.  Water will soften or destroy drywall in short order.  The other problem is the wooden studs will invite termites.  A third problem is that you would find very few workers who have ever hung and taped drywall.  If you do choose drywall you should consider using metal studs.  Hardiflex or drywall should not get "wavy" if supported at the proper interval, i.e. 16 inch on center of rafters or studs.  We used hardiflex in the ceiling of house we had built for the wife's parents.  It is hung on metal rafters on 16 inch centers and is still perfectly flat after about 10 years.  The seams do show, but I don't think they used nylon woven tape prior to applying the filler to the seams.  The other ceiling option, not mentioned so far, is marine plywood.  Expensive because you need to use at least 1/2 inch thick and it should be treated with solignum to stop termites prior to final paint.  So my advice is the same as @jimeve, use hollow block for walls and hardiflex for ceiling.   This is what the workers will have experience with and will last a good long time if properly installed.

If seams in hardiflex really bother you, consider putting 1x2 bats over the seams to make a grid, either 2x2 or 4x4 feet squares.  It hides the joints, relatively inexpensive,  and makes a really nice looking ceiling.  Especially true if you paint the bats in a slightly different color than the ceiling itself.

Kind of like this (prior to paint):

[sonjack2847]

15 hours ago, Arizona Kid said:

I have never seen that here. Maybe in the rich peoples houses? Isn't that the same as drywall?

Yes it`s drywall and is available.

[sonjack2847]

1 hour ago, Mike J said:

If you do choose drywall you should consider using metal studs.  Hardiflex or drywall should not get "wavy" if supported at the proper interval, i.e. 16 inch on center of rafters or studs.  

Yes this is the way to go. The only thing you have to factor in is will you want to hang things like pictures or maybe clocks then you would be best to put extra studs in.

[Tommy T.]

2 hours ago, Mike J said:

So my advice is the same as @jimeve, use hollow block for walls and hardiflex for ceiling.   This is what the workers will have experience with and will last a good long time if properly installed.

That sounds like great advice, Mike. Our home will have hollow block inside walls mostly but maybe one or two using the Hardiflex. It was suggested to use the hollow block mostly because it will help deaden sound and make the place quieter from room to room. Also, wood is expensive.

The contractors also told me there are two versions of Hardiflex - one is stronger and more durable than the other...is this true? I was also advised to be careful about applying much, if any, texture on the walls because it would promote more dust collection on them and be harder to clean. I don't like the semi-gloss paint in this apartment as that also shows imperfections more. But again, L and the contractor advise against using flat finish for the same reason - collect dirt and harder to clean... any thoughts or advice out there?

[Gary D]

My immediate concern with plaster board was moisture and leaks. Until the conversation I wasn't aware that plaster board was available here. Our current ceilings where narra but a couple of sheets bubbled once the varnish was applied. That ceiling was replaced later on, the rest have been there for nearly 20 years. The new ceiling is the more traditional painted design.

[Mike J]

30 minutes ago, Tommy T. said:

That sounds like great advice, Mike. Our home will have hollow block inside walls mostly but maybe one or two using the Hardiflex. It was suggested to use the hollow block mostly because it will help deaden sound and make the place quieter from room to room. Also, wood is expensive.

The contractors also told me there are two versions of Hardiflex - one is stronger and more durable than the other...is this true? I was also advised to be careful about applying much, if any, texture on the walls because it would promote more dust collection on them and be harder to clean. I don't like the semi-gloss paint in this apartment as that also shows imperfections more. But again, L and the contractor advise against using flat finish for the same reason - collect dirt and harder to clean... any thoughts or advice out there?

Hardiflex comes in different thickness, 4.5mm, 6mm, 9mm depending on the application.  You can actually bend some of the thinner stuff if you have curves in walls or ceiling.  I agree about the texture collecting dust and also spider webs.  I usually paint walls with semi-gloss.  The flat gets dirty easily and is a bitch to try and clean, dirt seems to actually penetrate the paint.  I have never cared for a gloss finish, just a personal preference.  So semi-gloss is kind of a compromise for me.   The exception to this is the CR where I do use gloss enamel, where there is no tile, because of the moisture and need to wipe down walls to prevent mildew.  Anything other than gloss does not seem to hold up to frequent cleaning.  Paint is one of those things where you almost always "get what you pay for".  I do not like to paint, so I try to buy the best and most long lasting paint so I don't have to repaint so often.