Fixing gaps in the ceiling?

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Mike J
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I was a bit surprised to hear that drywall was widely available and being used.  Are these "stick built" house, ie 2x4 studs etc, or the metal studs?  In the US there is water resistant drywall called green board because of the paper color.  The paper coating is heavier and treated with a wax like substance.  Recommended for use in high moisture areas such as CR and kitchens.  Not recommended in showers, where cement board is used. 

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Mike J
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9 hours ago, jimeve said:

This reminds me of the artexing ceilings in UK 70's and 80's, hated it. Then in the 90's stripping the damn stuff off. Glad it went out of fashion. By the way, you need a roller for the textured paint. 

How to Apply Artex: Artexing & Textured Plaster Finishes

And a lot of it, at least early on, contained asbestos.  Very expensive to pay someone to remove it.  The treatment I always thought came from hell was the "popcorn" ceilings.  They would trap spider webs, dust, etc.  Almost impossible to clean and/or paint.   Some things like popcorn ceilings and orange shag carpet are best left in the dustbin of history.   

 

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Mike J
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15 hours ago, OnMyWay said:

After we get it reasonably flat, we will apply the paint with the "pebbly sand" in it.  I think when it is done it will be ok.

You can add ground walnut shells to your paint if you cannot find a textured brand in the color you want.  Available on Lazada, and maybe paint stores?

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hk blues
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17 hours ago, jimeve said:

This reminds me of the artexing ceilings in UK 70's and 80's, hated it. Then in the 90's stripping the damn stuff off. Glad it went out of fashion. By the way, you need a roller for the textured paint. 

How to Apply Artex: Artexing & Textured Plaster Finishes

My only experience with it was a bathroom so not a big area to work on.  That said, it was like Christmas when I was removing it - IIRC I used a wide scraper.

Another problem material was woodchip, especially after the usual 10 or more coats of emulsion, or worse still, gloss, paint.

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jimeve
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4 hours ago, hk blues said:

My only experience with it was a bathroom so not a big area to work on.  That said, it was like Christmas when I was removing it - IIRC I used a wide scraper.

Another problem material was woodchip, especially after the usual 10 or more coats of emulsion, or worse still, gloss, paint.

Yep, specially the course woodchip. I always scratch the woodchip and use a steam-stripper and hot soapy water.

The only stripper I want now is downtown in a bar. :wub: 

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hk blues
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19 hours ago, jimeve said:

Yep, specially the course woodchip. I always scratch the woodchip and use a steam-stripper and hot soapy water.

The only stripper I want now is downtown in a bar. :wub: 

I had a humorous (afterwards) experience with a stripper (the DIY type).  The guy in the hire shop suggested we put it on and leave it in the room for a while to let the steam build up.  This was back in the late eighties so things weren't like nowadays and the machine was a monster. We left it on in the room for a while, probably longer than recommended.  Anyhow, we went in later and it was like a sauna!  Worse still, not only had the stripper started to do it's work on the wallpaper on the walls but on the ceiling too which wasn't in our original plan.

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OnMyWay
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On 12/1/2022 at 6:01 AM, Mike J said:

I was a bit surprised to hear that drywall was widely available and being used.  Are these "stick built" house, ie 2x4 studs etc, or the metal studs?  In the US there is water resistant drywall called green board because of the paper color.  The paper coating is heavier and treated with a wax like substance.  Recommended for use in high moisture areas such as CR and kitchens.  Not recommended in showers, where cement board is used. 

In our case, the house was originally built by the U.S. Navy, and perhaps that has a lot to do with why drywall is widely available in this area.  Our external walls are concrete block and most of the internal walls are wood studs with drywall.  A few internal walls that were added during a renovation are thin plywood, and you can really tell the difference if you knock on it.

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hk blues
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3 hours ago, OnMyWay said:

In our case, the house was originally built by the U.S. Navy, and perhaps that has a lot to do with why drywall is widely available in this area.  Our external walls are concrete block and most of the internal walls are wood studs with drywall.  A few internal walls that were added during a renovation are thin plywood, and you can really tell the difference if you knock on it.

I think nowadays they tend to use the aluminium studs which makes sense as they're easier to work with, lighter and won't rot. 

I'm no engineer, but I would suspect they are less able to hold heavy loads though than wood.  I've no idea.

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OnMyWay
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1 hour ago, hk blues said:

I think nowadays they tend to use the aluminium studs which makes sense as they're easier to work with, lighter and won't rot. 

I'm no engineer, but I would suspect they are less able to hold heavy loads though than wood.  I've no idea.

Actually, the U.S. Navy used metal studs in the last houses they built here.  Our house is originally from the 50's or 60's, I think.  Another area of our neighborhood was added in the in the 80's, I think, and had metal studs.  We rented there for a bit over a year before buying our current house.

Some of the walls in these Navy houses are thick solid concrete.  The guy across the street  did a huge renovation, and needed to add an internal doorway, when he found this out.  It was on the second floor and he broke 3 jack hammers making the opening!

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Mike J
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On 12/4/2022 at 2:02 PM, OnMyWay said:

Some of the walls in these Navy houses are thick solid concrete.  The guy across the street  did a huge renovation, and needed to add an internal doorway, when he found this out.  It was on the second floor and he broke 3 jack hammers making the opening!

Good concrete, properly cured, gets stronger with age.  Worked a number of remodels where even a large rotary hammer has trouble drilling holes, etc.

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