Mango Wood Treatment

[Tommy T.]

I was not sure where to place this topic so picked this as seemingly most appropriate?

We recently were able to buy some cuts of mango to use as a few outdoor tables and maybe some stools. I looked online regarding how to deal with mango wood as I have no experience with it. I can work with teak mainly. Online suggestions included that teak does not necessarily need to be dried like some other woods. Simply applying timber treatment oils sounded simple and possible.

I was thinking to be a bit more aggressive by letting it dry for at least a month, then applying epoxy to seal it from the elements, followed by spar varnish to provide weather and UV protection. I also found teak oil online so could simply apply that periodically. Anyone have ideas or experience they might be willing to share?

Also, I am wondering about the bark. Should I remove it or just clean it up and epoxy/varnish over it? I have seen some wood rounds with bark still attached and then coated with something akin to epoxy or acrylic? Don't know what it was, but it looked really good and added to the visual interest and variety.

Thanks in advance...

[Mike J]

Googled "mango wood lumber" and found this site.   At the bottom is a chat function with Q&A that should help you.  Here is the Philippines you would definately need to treat it to prevent termites.  I would recommend clear solignum after the wood has dried.

https://www.wood-database.com/mango/

 

[Possum]

The old rule of thumb for drying fresh cut lumber is 1 year for each inch of thickness. Wood here is rarely dried long enough. I had a beautiful front door made from Acacia and filled cracks for two years. Once it was dry I used spar urethane to protect it, good stuff.

[Tommy T.]

21 hours ago, Mike J said:

Googled "mango wood lumber" and found this site.   At the bottom is a chat function with Q&A that should help you.  Here is the Philippines you would definately need to treat it to prevent termites.  I would recommend clear solignum after the wood has dried.

https://www.wood-database.com/mango/

 

I looked that up and it had some help, but most of the posts were several years old. I will continue to research. would you recommend I use wood chisels to peel off the bark while these mango rounds are still fresh? From what I've read, I will follow @Greglm's thoughts and try to dry the wood for a while. That web site states, rather unequivocally, that kiln drying is the best way to dry the wood. Well, I am not going to go that far, for better or worse, and will try just drying in dry conditions with maybe some sunshine baking to help drive out the moisture. I hope that works.

21 hours ago, Greglm said:

The old rule of thumb for drying fresh cut lumber is 1 year for each inch of thickness. Wood here is rarely dried long enough. I had a beautiful front door made from Acacia and filled cracks for two years. Once it was dry I used spar urethane to protect it, good stuff.

Years ago, we had termite infested teak in a part of our yacht - oh s***!!! We removed the offending part (a huge, heavy piece on the bow) and burned it. I then went through the yacht and sprayed almost everywhere, especially near the site of insect infection. We needed to have an entire new piece fabricated from laminated teak boards. They had dried for five years!!! No problems at all with that - no shrinking, warping or checking. But for a few outside tables and stools, After reading your comments, those of a few websites and Mike J,  I am willing to take a bit of a chance and try drying them for 6 months to a year using the tropical sun and covered with tarps during rain or night. I will then treat with solignum and then, I agree totally, spar urethane to finish it off to make it sun resistant. I may do an epoxy treatment first, especially to seal the legs from moist soil. I have already learned a lot since yesterday, but am certainly no expert. The mango was practically free, only my time (which is very cheap these days) and some chemicals will cost me...

[Viking]

Like mentioned before it takes long time to dry wood the natural way and to be honest, I think it will be very difficult in the humidity we have here.

But you got the wood cheap, so no big deal if it doesn't work out as planned.

I am not going to try teaching you how to use epoxy, because you probably have greater experience with that than I do, but is it not important that the wood is really dry before using it? Or the wood will "move" and the epoxy will crack?

[Tommy T.]

54 minutes ago, Viking said:

I am not going to try teaching you how to use epoxy, because you probably have greater experience with that than I do, but is it not important that the wood is really dry before using it? Or the wood will "move" and the epoxy will crack?

Absolutely right.... I am NOT an expert at all, just have worked with it for a number of years with success mostly.  Yeah... I want that wood to be fairly dry before coating, otherwise I will expect cracking and checking... I'll let you know in a year or two if it worked!!!

[Mike J]

What is the diameter and length of the limbs/trunks?  Drying time would be reduced if you were to turn them into lumber prior to drying.

Edited December 4, 2022 by Mike J

[Tommy T.]

1 hour ago, Mike J said:

What is the diameter and length of the limbs/trunks?  Drying time would be reduced if you were to turn them into lumber prior to drying.

Hi Mike... These are rounds - the cuts from the trunk. They are up to 3 feet in diameter and some are 3 inches thick or so... some more and some less...

[Mike J]

1 hour ago, Tommy T. said:

Hi Mike... These are rounds - the cuts from the trunk. They are up to 3 feet in diameter and some are 3 inches thick or so... some more and some less...

If three inches thick they would take a LONG time to dry.  Maybe have a lumber yard cut them into 1 inch thick lumber?  Then sticker it to dry, protect from rain, but allow free movement of air to remove moisture.  I would treat it with solignum even before it is dried or the termites will be after it.

[Tommy T.]

16 minutes ago, Mike J said:

If three inches thick they would take a LONG time to dry.  Maybe have a lumber yard cut them into 1 inch thick lumber?  Then sticker it to dry, protect from rain, but allow free movement of air to remove moisture.  I would treat it with solignum even before it is dried or the termites will be after it.

Good advice.. I will try that... Thanks!