Ceiling cracks

[MikeyD]

We are currently having some “cracks” in our ceilings repaired.  To me, it just looks like cracks that developed in whatever is on the surface and not an actual crack in the ceiling material.  During the repair they had to remove one of the ceiling lights and I looked into the hole and there is no insulation in the open gap between the ceiling and the roof.  I’m assuming that may be normal here.  One of the workers commented that it looks like the ceiling material is hardiflex and that something else would have been better but can’t remember the name of what he mentioned.  During the repairs, we either noticed more cracks or they suddenly appeared in other rooms.  I’m wondering if repairing or ignoring these cracks is going to be an ongoing process or if there is a way to “permanently” stop them from occurring.  Does anyone have any experience with this?

[Boinky69]

3 hours ago, MikeyD said:

We are currently having some “cracks” in our ceilings repaired.  To me, it just looks like cracks that developed in whatever is on the surface and not an actual crack in the ceiling material.  During the repair they had to remove one of the ceiling lights and I looked into the hole and there is no insulation in the open gap between the ceiling and the roof.  I’m assuming that may be normal here.  One of the workers commented that it looks like the ceiling material is hardiflex and that something else would have been better but can’t remember the name of what he mentioned.  During the repairs, we either noticed more cracks or they suddenly appeared in other rooms.  I’m wondering if repairing or ignoring these cracks is going to be an ongoing process or if there is a way to “permanently” stop them from occurring.  Does anyone have any experience with this?

If it is Hardiflex it will have joints they may have set over to make a flush finish. Hardifelx comes in sheets. Where they set it (plaster over the joints) it is prone to cracking. Any movement in the house structure will be seen in these hardiflex joints between the ceiling sheets. Can you share a photo?

[Jack Peterson]

18 minutes ago, Boinky69 said:

If it is Hardiflex it will have joints they may have set over to make a flush finish. Hardifelx comes in sheets. Where they set it (plaster over the joints) it is prone to cracking. Any movement in the house structure will be seen in these hardiflex joints between the ceiling sheets. Can you share a photo?

 They should use a Putty mix over a plaster joint Web, I had this and now No problems for over 11 years  I will ad that as the putty never really fully hardens it copes with any movement of the hardiflex 

Edited March 24 by Jack Peterson
added something

[OnMyWay]

4 hours ago, Boinky69 said:

One of the workers commented that it looks like the ceiling material is hardiflex and that something else would have been better but can’t remember the name of what he mentioned.

Gypsum?  We call it "drywall" in the U.S.  Hardiflex is more rigid than gypsum so maybe that is why the seams tend to crack more often than the gypsum that is properly taped and sealed with joint compound.  My last house had Hardiflex ceilings and you could always see the joints, even after we put texture on them.

My current house project only had gypsum walls and ceilings.  We had to do some repiping that involved making holes in walls and ceilings, completely taking out a few walls and ceilings, etc.  Most of it is all replaced / repatched now and I must say, the crew has done an excellent job, led by one old painter who really knows his sh*t.  We are going to texture most of the walls, and yesterday he did four sample textures for me.  All were nice.  We are going with the smoothest.

[Mike J]

We had mahogany bats, 1 1/2 x 1/2 inch, installed over the joint lines.  Our ceiling is 1/2 inch marine plywood, treated with solignum, prior to being painted.   Batts were clear coated but I have seen the done in white to match the ceiling or a complementary color.  The photo is a bit skewed, the grids are four feet square.  Not for everyone, but we like it.

 

[hk blues]

4 hours ago, Mike J said:

We had mahogany bats, 1 1/2 x 1/2 inch, installed over the joint lines.  Our ceiling is 1/2 inch marine plywood, treated with solignum, prior to being painted.   Batts were clear coated but I have seen the done in white to match the ceiling or a complementary color.  The photo is a bit skewed, the grids are four feet square.  Not for everyone, but we like it.

 

That's a decorative way to solve the problem.

In our development, the builders actually cut notches along the hardiflex joints working on the principle that the cracks won't be so visible - it does work but looks so old -fashioned to me.  Luckily, our house for some reason didn't get that finish so we're smooth finish - and yes, there are cracks here and there but as I rarely look up it's no problem and, more importantly, almost all the downstairs ceilings are steel anyway. 

ETA - My In-laws' ceiling is also marine ply but they didn't add the batons and every single joint is now visible.  Also, the paint is peeling off all over!  All in all, just not done that well but no doubt they prioritised saving money over aesthetics. 

 

Edited March 25 by hk blues

[jimeve]

4 hours ago, hk blues said:

That's a decorative way to solve the problem.

In our development, the builders actually cut notches along the hardiflex joints working on the principle that the cracks won't be so visible - it does work but looks so old -fashioned to me.  Luckily, our house for some reason didn't get that finish so we're smooth finish - and yes, there are cracks here and there but as I rarely look up it's no problem and, more importantly, almost all the downstairs ceilings are steel anyway. 

ETA - My In-laws' ceiling is also marine ply but they didn't add the batons and every single joint is now visible.  Also, the paint is peeling off all over!  All in all, just not done that well but no doubt they prioritised saving money over aesthetics. 

 

They never learn, marine ply is wood, wood needs wood primer, same principle with metal ,use a metal primer and galvanized metal needs an etch primer.

[Possum]

12 minutes ago, jimeve said:

They never learn, marine ply is wood, wood needs wood primer, same principle with metal ,use a metal primer and galvanized metal needs an etch primer.

The last galvanized metal table I had built I told the guy to paint with vinegar and let dry before painting. He was amazed and has returned a couple of times to compare that table with one he built before I told him about the vinegar. He now uses it on all his projects.

[hk blues]

2 hours ago, Possum said:

The last galvanized metal table I had built I told the guy to paint with vinegar and let dry before painting. He was amazed and has returned a couple of times to compare that table with one he built before I told him about the vinegar. He now uses it on all his projects.

I've never thought to use vinegar as a primer but have used it to remove light rust - it's quite effective but not 100% so.  

[Possum]

57 minutes ago, hk blues said:

I've never thought to use vinegar as a primer but have used it to remove light rust - it's quite effective but not 100% so.  

Vinegar as a mild acid etches the zinc. Still need to prime and paint. The best thing I have ever used is a Rustoleum galvanize primer. It remains tacky for a long time in order for the paint to stick to it and also etched. Haven't seen it in a long time and didn't even bother to look for it here.